tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10496319346813262182024-03-05T04:52:52.668-08:00aerialcopperdesigns and creationsaerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.comBlogger205125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-40313934491868044072020-01-05T16:31:00.000-08:002020-01-05T16:31:28.389-08:003D-Printed Compass/Scribe<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClUymXeIsiXy4GWIX2i7l1NOuQHrYAyuN-RoArptlQ3YRkQKcPi-68xnP-mibJg0IurbWJLNBradFnrbLdD5m26iCLtVT75RIX2FgKJnjf3FDrN2Vfp-02XbXssJwSZ6q0FaMB5zTcD6f/s1600/compass3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjClUymXeIsiXy4GWIX2i7l1NOuQHrYAyuN-RoArptlQ3YRkQKcPi-68xnP-mibJg0IurbWJLNBradFnrbLdD5m26iCLtVT75RIX2FgKJnjf3FDrN2Vfp-02XbXssJwSZ6q0FaMB5zTcD6f/s400/compass3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I designed a compass/scribe for 3d printing- full post at <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2020/01/05/compass.html">http://aerialcopper.com/2020/01/05/compass.html</a>aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-80304535020873038022019-09-18T16:53:00.001-07:002019-09-18T16:53:22.911-07:00Helmet Mirror<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSpPIfy96ZCUqvUiWw4rbFx7OcPUwJ-OsHtsK9UShvWaJVUAp_plgFJBkoJQHb9dZGpbrYBLmPxlISqvMkSNK_ssr3qaCjCMuQTL5KC84qDU2yvHXVErRDYpZsK5KxTKxwLugrWsmoAXKy/s1600/helmetmirror1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSpPIfy96ZCUqvUiWw4rbFx7OcPUwJ-OsHtsK9UShvWaJVUAp_plgFJBkoJQHb9dZGpbrYBLmPxlISqvMkSNK_ssr3qaCjCMuQTL5KC84qDU2yvHXVErRDYpZsK5KxTKxwLugrWsmoAXKy/s400/helmetmirror1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Made myself a new helmet mirror in a fit of blind stinginess after I lost the $14 one three days after I bought it. This one is a definite improvement though :)<br /><br />Also been making some wooden things, shared <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2019/09/18/latheprep.html">on my website</a><br />
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Till next time- drive carefully, friends!aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-32131668546203986912019-08-03T13:59:00.005-07:002019-09-18T16:54:03.216-07:00Bobbles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Some metal bobbles for a lathe, perhaps? Made a post <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2019/08/03/knifedittybag.html">here</a> about a repair and some other projects.<br />
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aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-8258899682018569282019-05-26T00:16:00.001-07:002019-05-26T00:16:12.565-07:00Palm Update<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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On <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2019/05/25/palmprogress.html">my website</a>.<br />
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http://aerialcopper.com/2019/05/25/palmprogress.html<br /><br />cheers-aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-27639617774765715482019-04-04T10:03:00.003-07:002019-04-04T10:03:52.257-07:00Constellation Box<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9pvEuZd-uX1Ugbn8Q7QhZCt55OrPrVF4MVigFMZ2ETGjMDcwuHCGVjnKwVEuGOMA_im11wf4tEoNFV5O0_Koa0411dJjScJ8vZPO8Y56Q1swM0UFkNPUUzScIjH5KSJTxPDoFN5sTYHh/s1600/lightbox5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9pvEuZd-uX1Ugbn8Q7QhZCt55OrPrVF4MVigFMZ2ETGjMDcwuHCGVjnKwVEuGOMA_im11wf4tEoNFV5O0_Koa0411dJjScJ8vZPO8Y56Q1swM0UFkNPUUzScIjH5KSJTxPDoFN5sTYHh/s320/lightbox5.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />I made Leo <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2019/04/04/leobox.html">a box that projects the constellation</a>-<br />
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I also made a <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/works/1_things/">page of interesting things</a> I've made in the last 5 years<br />
aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-82397731021750294542019-03-04T16:39:00.002-08:002019-03-04T16:39:26.727-08:00File Case<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWQKtVjhDL__U75kHwoeRSacrjSVephQ9HyDxTN9zEx4RxwCxIxbBIVHnQWmIWsFN61AkjMOxhSftjL1pNwDpztgGu5-dO_TqlWRG_4l9Q8HLlBYnwIjcApAmUXvRD9ZWUE18XgFaim_d/s1600/IMG_4249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoWQKtVjhDL__U75kHwoeRSacrjSVephQ9HyDxTN9zEx4RxwCxIxbBIVHnQWmIWsFN61AkjMOxhSftjL1pNwDpztgGu5-dO_TqlWRG_4l9Q8HLlBYnwIjcApAmUXvRD9ZWUE18XgFaim_d/s320/IMG_4249.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Made a quick file case from a piece of walnut I filleted in the apartment. I made a much more advanced pencil case too, details at <a href="http://www.aerialcopper.com/2019/03/04/pencilbox.html">aerialcopper.com</a><br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-18111198924770032742019-02-22T22:13:00.002-08:002019-02-23T10:19:08.889-08:00Website shiftHowdy friends!<br />
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I'm going to start posting on www.aerialcopper.com instead of this blog. It seems a shame to completely divide a blog this old into its own slice of time, so I will probably post odd bits here now and again.<br />
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It's a bit easier to blog with my own domain. It's up to me and the people I pay (nearlyfreespeech.net) to store my content this way--it seems like a more sustainable arrangement.<br />
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The website was once part of plans to make a living as an artist, but circumstances have changed and I've been swinging a hammer instead of a pencil. I'll just stick to the roots of this blog, mostly just a way for my friends and family to see what I do when I'm off the clock. So far www.aerialcopper.com is just the drawings from a small slice of time, but with good luck it'll slowly and quietly expand like this blog has.<br />
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With that, I just posted <a href="http://aerialcopper.com/2019/02/22/arrows.html">some doodles there</a> of arrows.aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-57034088377760946872019-02-13T20:33:00.002-08:002019-02-13T20:33:55.232-08:00Odd Repairs<br />
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I worked in these shoes for two months, causing the mesh in the toes to fall apart. I sewed some leather patches on them. Looks a little funny but I can wear them for another year :)<br />
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Been messing with a 3D printer and fusion360. I made a vent fan with duct adaptor and wiring enclosure. I'm trying to focus on creating more elegant designs; this assembly was kind of crude. Functional though.<br />
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Good for making odd lofted surfaces, no doubt!<br />
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Didn't have a cord grip on hand, why not print it?<br />
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Fixed the clothes rack. This clothes rack is great for drying clothes and tripping my girlfriend when she gets ready for work. They just do not get along.<br />
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In the same spirit of things-made-quickly-with-hand-tools, here are some big file handles for 12" and 14" files. I ground a lathe tool to turn the ID of the copper tube, so that it would compress the fibers as it was pressed on. <br />
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Lastly, my friend hired me to fit some handle scales to knives he started. I machined the edges of the brass and micarta so they'd be tight. The slotted pins have shoulders, which meant all of the holes in the micarta had to be counterbored. Would almost have been worth making a piloted counterbore.<br />
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I'm working six days a week to build a shop space for my dad. It should eventually offer a space to store my welding equipment- maybe we'll delve into some genres new to this blog.aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-11101852845706272052018-12-22T14:05:00.003-08:002018-12-22T14:05:40.519-08:00Failed Composite Molding Plug<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Applied chavant y2 klay:<br />
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Here's where I went wrong. If I understand correctly, I should have made some sheet metal tools to make a better surface on the clay, then applied layer(s) of fiberglass. After that I can use thickened epoxy filler and surface primer both followed by sanding to create a nice surface.<br /><br />I didn't know any of this. I slopped on some epoxy filler and revisited my life decisions.<br />
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Better luck on second attempt!aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-18294008437979939852018-12-22T13:48:00.001-08:002018-12-22T13:48:29.710-08:00Banjo Kit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Assembled a <a href="https://www.harpkit.com/mountain-banjo-kit.html">banjo kit</a> for myself to play. For the cost of the kit and how easily it went together, I am really happy with it! I thought of building it from scratch, but I've got too much other work right now.<br />
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I really like how it sounds with the nylon strings, a bit like a lute. Better for playing in apartment and more suited to the kind of music I like.<br />
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The kit is pretty well made (especially for $300) but there was one flaw I found annoying. The neck is secured in its mortise by a single 10-24 screw, and with the placement of the screw hole, the entire force of the strings was placed as shear force on the screw. I moved the hole a few mm and turned a brass washer to fit the enlarged counterbore:<br />
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Also added a 5th string capo so I can change keys easily-<br />
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They included brass nails to use as string pegs. I wanted something fancier, so I turned some grooves in stainless taper pins and used them as the pegs:<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-67659894241242326312018-10-25T21:00:00.000-07:002018-10-25T21:09:13.914-07:00Pantograph Mill Tracer Pins<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After I told a local knifemaker about the lathe I put together, he asked me to make him some tracer pins for his old pantograph mill. He asked how accurate my lathe was, I guessed I could do +/-.0002" diameter on a good day. If I was just a little wiser I'd have said something like .001". The X axis is graduated in .001" (radius), so .0002" diameter is a tenth of that. Nevertheless, I more or less managed to stay true to my word.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFZ_rJlKAIcqtloMtxbPqPUgKS1FA8OIIbmlTXjpTE2Bu0yeTZyrox9ECK-bkZwIyp5sl_zA3JcbJpDo8euLDkxa2URSDR9AsfwEhGM0spHrqn7w20zFQtCcCQ3HQ_MsY5kfCvErHvvQI/s1600/IMG_4202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUFZ_rJlKAIcqtloMtxbPqPUgKS1FA8OIIbmlTXjpTE2Bu0yeTZyrox9ECK-bkZwIyp5sl_zA3JcbJpDo8euLDkxa2URSDR9AsfwEhGM0spHrqn7w20zFQtCcCQ3HQ_MsY5kfCvErHvvQI/s320/IMG_4202.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The difficulty was compounded by the required concentricity between shank and working end. I thought I might be able to turn the working end, advance the stock in the collet without rotating it, and then turn the shank. No matter how careful I was, this made at least .001" TIR which didn't feel right. So I just stuck the bar out the full length of the finished part, like a tree in a windstorm. T.T<br />
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I contemplated making a follow rest, or shimming the headstock to reduce taper. It would have been clever to get 3/8" bar stock to increase rigidity while turning the tip, that's probably how they would do it in a production setting. All of those options would have taken a few extra days- and made my time worth even less. So I just sharpened the heck out of the tool (m42 hss), and kept sharpening it after just about every pin- <br />
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The working ends don't have measurable taper, but the shanks have about .0004" over their length. The old router-style collet that holds it shouldn't complain, and the taper is in the favorable direction. Material is 30 RC 1144 steel.<br />
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I press-fit magnets into the back so the knifemaker can stick them onto that beautiful old chunk of iron.<br />
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Say, I've never posted a picture of my finished lathe because it's always dirty and with an ugly backdrop. So here's a candid shot-<br />
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Yes, I do manage to squeeze my ass in there.aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-41327937047818062872018-10-20T11:19:00.000-07:002018-10-20T11:19:19.745-07:00Mountain Bike<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFS2J-Cd3HIYI8gMXYoh-I4L53prqn_lJ2ieNuP39_jGHLlPf5SFjrOBfs2rqVDpFsKRAj44aVJiq_WU_BeXNng3N2zjpsyzCAn2aEf_qTK6-Q75anJXtX2lT2rAL48n-1vf5TboCUT-32/s1600/IMG_4184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFS2J-Cd3HIYI8gMXYoh-I4L53prqn_lJ2ieNuP39_jGHLlPf5SFjrOBfs2rqVDpFsKRAj44aVJiq_WU_BeXNng3N2zjpsyzCAn2aEf_qTK6-Q75anJXtX2lT2rAL48n-1vf5TboCUT-32/s400/IMG_4184.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Gave my commuter bike an overhaul to make mountain biking a little friendlier. It had fenders and road 28x700c tires before, now it has 40's and knobs and no fenders to tangle with.<br />
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To put on the bigger tires, I had to get a new front derailleur and find a way to mount the lights without the fenders. I made little aluminum brackets for the front and rear:<br />
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I also got a smaller handlebar bag. I don't know what sort of G-forces a CX bike front end endures on galbraith mountain, but it was enough to really give the bigger handlebar bag a beating. With the smaller one I still don't have to wear a <i>backpack</i>, but I can still carry tube, tools, garlic press, and a few servings of hash browns.<br />
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This version of the bike has been named Monty by my sister. <br />
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Hurried to go on a ride with her yesterday, and one bar plug short of a full set, I whittled one out of fir in 12.2 seconds.<br />
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The bike is still far from a mountain bike, but after riding the 28mm road tires for a year it feels like I can do anything on it :)<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-21330212856288293942018-10-15T20:03:00.000-07:002018-10-15T20:09:48.265-07:00Shelf<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Courtney asked for a shelf for her dearest plants, as they were all crammed onto a tiny wire nightstand.<br />
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I made some of the pieces in a proper shop, and some in the apartment shop with hand tools. Cutting dadoes is a very different experience on the table saw vs. hand
saw/chisel/router plane; half of them were cut by each method. As the
front uprights angled inwards towards the top, cutting them by hand was actually desirable in ways. For the back ones, I'd take the table saw any day, but would have instead made them dovetails if I did it by hand.<br />
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The shelves are aluminum offcuts from a local metal supplier. I had to trim three of them- you can see the bottom two aren't quite deep enough, but I saved a lot of money by not making them cut up a large sheet. <br />
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This is how I carried the wooden pieces back from the big shop- it was rainy and 10pm but overall a peaceful and quiet ride <br />
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Here was carrying the aluminum back with my groceries- I'm starting to grow attached to this bike. To me they start as inanimate machines, and gradually become more like animals or friends.<br />
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aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-90939399155110896732018-10-11T10:51:00.002-07:002018-10-11T10:51:47.538-07:00Weighted Blanket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A therapist/healer hired me to make some weighted blankets. Many people like a soft, heavy weight atop them; they find it calming. <br />
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The therapist wanted me to make them because I was local, and I could
fill them with tiny glass beads instead of the usual polyethylene
plastic pellets. So far I have bought all the fabric in Bellingham. The glass beads are very nice and smooth to the touch. It feels a bit like sand, but since each grain is a smooth sphere they flow more easily.<br />
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The first blanket I made had a zippered cover; this one has the same number of layers but is sewn as a single piece. It weighs about 10 lb (4.5 kg) and is 54 x 40 in (140 x 100 cm). If you are interested in buying one, one this size costs about $150. A small one would be closer to $80. <br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-22131777623863190352018-10-06T14:04:00.003-07:002018-10-06T14:04:47.035-07:00Sprinkler Stand II<a href="http://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2016/09/another-chopstick-jig-sprinkler-stand.html">The last sprinkler stand I made</a> is still sprinkling, but dad needed a second one. The turned hubs of the first one have cracked from getting wet and drying out so many times. <br /><br />I made the new one to be more waterproof-<br />
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Made of aluminum, delrin, and stainless steel.<br />
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I could have made the delrin inserts a press-fit, but I wanted them to be easily replaceable. They are each secured with a sheet-metal screw.<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-73395811110902214032018-09-13T13:10:00.001-07:002018-09-13T13:18:44.704-07:005C Lathe Part II: Power Supply and ESC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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450 w 12 v server power supply connected to 25 amp ESC. With this arrangement, I get a very compact 1/2 HP variable speed motor for $100 or so. The parts are all pretty high quality too-<br />
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I made the aluminum enclosure from .062" aluminum found in the remnants bin at local metal supplier. The <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BbSeMLphZCO/?taken-by=dylanrathkamp">top handle</a> and aluminum for knob came from a dumpster, and the pushbutton switch on the top was recycled from my <a href="http://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2016/05/wooden-computer-case.html">wooden computer case</a> build.<br />
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Servo tester with 'mode' switch and potentiometer breakout.<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-56594021359783262562018-09-12T21:13:00.000-07:002018-09-12T21:16:53.059-07:00Thin .040" Parting Tool Holder<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The slot has a dovetail shape to pull the parting blade towards the tool holder. It's really helpful if the blade can go right up next to the chuck. The parting tool holder made by Taig is weak in this department:<br />
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I skimmed maybe .075" off the blade clamp, but it still gets in the way all the time. I'm excited to have a holder that can part almost flush with the chuck!<br />
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To cut the dovetail on the new holder, I ground a safe edge on a cheap triangular file and finished the slot with it. It might have been faster to grind a single-point cutter, but this worked fine<br />
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It takes up half of the AXA tool holder; the other half will get a piece to hold a 1/4" facing tool at matching height to the cutoff tool.<br />
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Made for my 5c lathe. Ideally this would be made of 4140 or something like it, but I used the cold-rolled steel I had. I parted a 1/2" stainless rod and it worked a treat. I have never used a parting tool so thin, and it's a good match for small work and light lathes. I can get <i>real</i> stingy with my bar stock now :)<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-5820210721089845472018-09-02T19:18:00.001-07:002018-09-03T18:26:47.382-07:005C Lathe Part I: Motor Mount<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm putting together a new manual desktop lathe to replace the <a href="https://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2016/06/taig-lathe-box-and-motor.html">one I put together two years ago</a>. The old one has been awesome, despite its weaknesses and size it is the most useful tool I have ever had. <br />
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The new one is made with light production in mind, for making drawer pulls and hand tool parts. It has a <a href="http://taigtools.com/taigturn2000.html">5C spindle</a>, quick-change tool post, and slots for mounting five or more tools in a gang arrangement. <br />
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Above was boring out the hole for the motor using a fly cutter. I adjusted the cutter with my most precise hammer and ended up with a darn accurate bore, a snug slip fit over the motor. :) The motor is a 450 w brushless DC motor, pretty spicy for a motor that's smaller than the lathe spindle itself...<br />
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I wanted the fit to be close so that the pinch bolt wouldn't have to stress the aluminum much to clamp it (it does clamp easily). The outer edge of the plate is pretty sloppy though; I got tired of filing the gummy aluminum. A mill or router would have been nice for that.<br />
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I roughed out the plate shape with a wax-lubed coping saw, which was actually pretty quick. The 18" frame saw also cuts through it plenty fast. I made the plate to fit the vee belt I had on hand (standard Taig lathe belt), after I machined both pulleys. It pivots on the bottom mounting screw and locks with the screw on the top to tension the belt. I erred on the long side for the slot travel since the belt is heavily used. <br />
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Approx 1:6.5 reduction. Small pulley machined of steel and secured to shaft with setscrew bearing on flat portion. Also managed to bore a tight slip fit on the motor shaft with a little honed carbide boring bar. <br />
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Used steel shaft collar to mate the plywood pulley to the spindle--I often grab the pulley and rotate by hand to tap holes and do other high-torque stuff. Setscrew just seems hackish for this.<br />
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Stay posted for the base, tooling, electronics, and maybe even an electronic leadscrew-aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-45067127897800908112018-08-27T23:05:00.002-07:002018-08-27T23:05:21.638-07:00T-Slot Nuts: Minimum Effort EditionKind of humbling to have to make one's own T-slot nuts in this era. I did it once before using <a href="http://deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/tnuts/tnuts.html">this method</a> when I first started machining at home. <br />
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<br /> Couldn't find Taig-sized nuts from the usual suspects so I decided it would be best to just make them myself. I initially thought the style on the left (above) would be fast to make, but without a square collet and a rigid lathe it's a slog.<br />
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Yesterday I started bucking off 1/2" pieces from a bar of 1018. Absolutely unremarkable in every way except for the little fixture I made for drilling and tapping them this morning:<br />
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Nope, I think I was right the first time, absolutely unremarkable in every way. You may notice the slightly over-sized aluminum sub-plate there. I intend to use it for other things, have needed one for a while.<br /><br />I made a dozen of the nuts:<br />
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one two three four six seven twelve <br />
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Despite being so rough and rushed, they ain't bad. The threads are square to the shoulders, they are steel, they are all nice and deburred, and there's more meat there than the 1/8" thick ones that came with it.<br /><br />If the last ones are any indication, they'll do just fine for the next eight years.aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-73169988443215595462018-08-26T21:41:00.002-07:002018-08-26T21:46:21.121-07:00Frame Saw for MetalI have wanted a frame saw something awful bad for a few years, to use for sawing metal. I think I was blessed (or cursed?) at birth to spend my life hacksawing. It's not as bad as people make it out to be; it's a very accurate tool. Accuracy at the saw is worth a pound of cure at the mill, or often in my case, the hand file. It's not difficult to saw +/- .010", and +/- .004" is not out of the question when all my ducks are in a row.<br />
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No matter how it's done, sawing steel is kind of a pain in the butt. Be it metal grit in your collar (glowing hot or just hot enough to burn), a mighty physical workout, or funky old coolant that dearly wants to find a way back to the earth, no method is without its drawbacks. I once bought and restored a little <a href="https://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2017/02/power-hacksaw-and-wooden-bushings.html">power hacksaw</a>, but it was even slower than hacksawing by hand--I think due to the short stroke, wide kerf, and its lack of deductive reasoning ability. Who am I to blame though?<br />
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I once nearly bought an Ellis horizontal band saw, but kept the money instead--my favorite saws for metal are dedicated vertical bandsaws. They are relatively peaceful and versatile.<br />
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A couple months ago I found the saw design of <a href="http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/danish-frame-saw-parts/index.html">Blackburn Tools</a>, which struck me as especially pretty--I just sort of memorized the general form and sketched it out on the wood I had. The wood came from the ReStore, I think it might be alder. I got the idea for the pins from <a href="https://seanhellman.blogspot.com/2010/07/frame-saw.html">Sean Hellman</a>. The whole thing, including making the three blades, took a full day of work and maybe $20 in materials.<br />
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I had put it off for a long time because I thought I didn't have the technology for drilling holes in the hardened blade. I really worked it up in my mind that it was a difficult undertaking. Yesterday I took an $8.50 diamond 'stone' to a $2.60 carbide tipped masonry bit to sharpen it. It drilled so easily and quickly, I felt like an idiot for putting it off so long. To cut the blade, I just clamped it in the vise and bent it back and forth. <br />
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The whole thing feels absurdly light to me. I used Kevlar thread for the tensioning string. Like a spoked wheel, it's such an elegant design.<br />
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Below is the hacksaw it mostly replaces. I finally snapped yesterday while using it because the thick coating of paint on the blade was making the blade steer unpredictably. It also squeals! Whether the blade is loose or tight, wax-lubed or bone-dry, pressed hard or gently, it really can get loud. I work mostly in a shared apartment, and do my best to keep the people around me happy. I often pressed the pinky of my leading hand against the blade to quiet it down, which feels a bit risky; fortunately I haven't slipped yet. I have even clamped large rubber dampers to the frame and blade, which reduces the noise at expense of stroke length. Which brings my to my last gripe, the short stroke! I am a tall and lanky machine, I feel like I'm pedaling a children's bike with a 12" hacksaw. <br />
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I must have sewn through logs of solid steel with that
hacksaw by now. Below are some recent victims. 1" x 3" 1018 on the top left, .75 x 3" top right, and underneath is a .75" x 6" slice off a plate of hardened (RC 30) 4140 to make a hatchet stake. New ones are expensive, alright?<br />
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Today I put ol' faithful head-to-head with the saw I just made. I tested it on these blanks for odd-sized t-slot-nuts, .25" x .75" 1018 steel. I also tested it against my powered jigsaw at its lowest speed (I'm in an apartment, remember). <br />
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Frame saw: 1 min 30 sec - 3 min 30 sec<br />
Hacksaw: 2 min - 4 min<br />
Jigsaw: 1 min 30 sec<br />
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The slow speeds represent accurate cuts at comfortable pace. The fast speeds represent breaking-a-sweat speed with less attention to accuracy. All new blades, which might actually be a handicap to the hacksaw due to the idiot at the factory that paints them with ten coats of truck bed liner. The jigsaw, while fastest, was not nearly as accurate. All the pieces were within a .015" window in length :)<br />
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The frame saw is also quieter than the other two. I can't bear to put the blade in my hacksaw backwards, but the frame saw is quieter and more confident cutting on the pull stroke. I think once I get comfortable with it, I'll be ready to race the 2500 lb hyd-mech bandsaw at the tech school* ;)<br />
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I look forward to trying other blade types in it. The blades I made for it are 14 tpi modified-raker set, and it's clear that vibration was the biggest thing holding it back. I wonder if wavy-set or variable pitch blades would cut better. In any case, the Starrett bandsaw blade stock feels a lot sharper and more precise than any hacksaw blade I've used.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">*material cut: 1/4" aluminum tube </span>aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-53101245459227349642018-08-18T15:53:00.002-07:002018-08-18T15:54:40.655-07:00Bar Stool - Hand Tool vs Power<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finished this bar stool after carrying around the pieces for two years. The main pieces were ripped on the bandsaw, but otherwise it was pretty much made on potato power. Douglas fir is so ornery to work with hand tools, in the sneakiest ways. It probably would have been more precise and faster to make in another wood, but I like the character of the finished chair. Not afraid to scratch it-<br />
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The side stretchers are <a href="https://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2017/02/stilts.html">recycled stilts</a> I made for my girlfriend. She didn't use them and gave me permission to cut 'em up.<br />
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This chair is now sitting beside another chair which has a lot in common with it: made of douglas fir, a one-off design made by the seat of the pants, both made in free time. They share some interesting differences though-<br />
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The one on the right was made by my dad almost entirely with power tools. The legs were bandsawn of 4x4's, the seat was carved with an angle grinder and bandsaw, and it is jointed with mortise-and-tenons done with mortising machine/table saw. It was finished with a random orbital sander and rasps. <br />
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The one on the left was made in a 4' square space, using various hand saws and planes. The top was carved with a hatchet, and it is jointed with cherry dowels I cut and turned by hand. It was finished with rasps and a little bit of sanding. I think the designs reflect the tools they were made with; each would be a pain in the ass to make with the other method.<br />
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The one I made is less comfortable and has a rougher finish, but is lighter and used probably a 20% of the wood as the other one. It is equally comfortable to sit on frontwards/backwards. The one dad made is better suited to a wider range of butts, but feels weird to sit on backwards. Being a stool, it does get sat on in all directions. It's worth pointing out that dad has made much nicer stools since-<br />
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One more stool of interest! I made this one on the floor of a carport (where dad later built his shop) right after I moved to Bellingham. The wood came from a dumpster next door where my neighbors were building their house; it's also made of douglas fir. I used an awful hand saw, a block plane, a jigsaw, and a drill. Still, it has been a lovely stool! It's very rigid and has been sat on by many a butt in the four years it's been around.<br />
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aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-89813116738277966562018-08-14T16:36:00.000-07:002018-08-14T16:36:09.385-07:00Phone Case Mark TwoI <a href="https://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2013/12/phone-case.html">TOLD YOU</a> there would be a rev. 2!!!<br />
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Ahem<br />
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<br />Stitching wool liner with wooden form (above)<br /><br />Made of cotton duck this time.<br />
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Inside is a bit how-ya-doin', but the hand-sewing allows the outside to keep clean lines. If the last five years are any indication, it's not going to fray anytime soon either. <br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-36065631280792351872018-08-11T11:31:00.000-07:002018-08-11T11:32:00.246-07:00Refined Baldor 7 Inch Bench Grinder<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've really wanted a nice bench grinder since 2010, when I used the baldor in the high school shop. I bought one nearly two years ago, but didn't get to it until now. I put together a nice <a href="https://aerialcopper.blogspot.com/2017/05/belt-grinder.html">belt grinder with VFD</a>, but a belt grinder is just not as refined. Grinding cutters on a quiet and stable bench grinder has to be one of the most relaxing activities. <br />
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The Baldor came pretty rough from the factory and I resolved to make it nice. The tool rests were crooked and wobbly, and the wheel flanges/bushings weren't very accurate. The shaft was pretty concentric through, so it was worth fixing. For accurate grinding of drills and cutters, a solid and flat tool rest is helpful. I set mine 1/2" below wheel centerline. I can put spacers beneath the item to be ground to accurately set a grind angle. <br />
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I made the rests of 1/2" mild steel using hacksaw and file, and the Taig lathe to mill the slot and drill the screw holes. I machined the bushings all on the Taig lathe.<br />
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I used the Oneway balancing kit to balance the wheels. It works alright; the balancing stand is not very sensitive but the flanges are nice and accurate. <br />
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You can see it running <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BmWHb3gHmFr/?taken-by=dylanrathkamp">here</a>.<br />
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I set up a fixture for sharpening a drill, and for the first time I split the point on a twist drill effectively. Sharpening drills freehand is a controversial topic because people have such wildly varying ideas of what a twist drill should be able to do.<br />
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I've had many US-made machine-sharpened drills which are sharpened worse than I could do by hand. Obviously, machines can do a much better job than I can do freehand too. You basically get what you pay for--a $25 twist drill is bound to be alright. <br />
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For accurate drilling in home shop, I like Chicago-Latrobe screw-machine length drills. They have a super crisp split point and their short length can actually take advantage of a rigid setup. They don't tend to make lobed hole during start unlike jobber-length bits (when used without guide clamped to surface).<br />
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Next challenge is grinding a brad-point bit for sheet metal :)aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-43977386429195875382018-08-11T10:24:00.003-07:002018-08-11T10:24:54.465-07:00Longboard Wheel Truing Mandrel<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Made this mandrel for <a href="https://aeonskateco.com/">a friend</a> to help him turn the flat spots off longboard wheels.<br />
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The fixed bushing is held in place with a taper pin.<br />
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When I dropped it off at the skateboard shop, the guy there was interested in making a gang arrangement on a dedicated lathe to true up four skateboard wheels at a time. I doubt he'll actually go through with it, but I'll share it here if he does.<br />
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A conventional shearing cutter used for metals doesn't work for cutting the wheel, a slicing tool is needed to cut off a band from the outer surface. I didn't bother to grind a special tool, instead I just flipped a thread cutting tool upside-down to see if it worked. A dedicated cutter wouldn't be too hard to make and would do a lot better than this mess:<br />
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<br />aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1049631934681326218.post-12863107284600821562018-08-08T09:17:00.002-07:002018-08-08T09:19:01.662-07:00Crossbow Roller NutI got a crossbow kit from <a href="http://alcheminc.com/">Alchem Inc.</a> when I was about ten. I never finished a crossbow, but I hung onto the parts for... 14 years now. I finally sold them for peanuts to an excited SCA member.<br />
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As a token to my fifth-grade self who didn't have the tools or knowledge
to make a decent roller nut, I made a blank to send with the rest of the
kit:<br />
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I didn't have any metal adhesive, so the steel parts are just a tight interference fit with the aluminum body. I hope the recipient puts it to good use :)aerialcopperhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08088072001904573327noreply@blogger.com0